design journal

Cultural Sensitivity in Brand Design: Navigating the Gray Area between Appropriation and Appreciation

Navigating cultural branding: Appropriation vs. appreciation. Ethical insights from Rituals to Ben & Jerry's

Cultural appropriation vs cultural appreciation

My partner tried to explain to me the phenomena of cultural appropriation vs cultural appreciation with respect to the critique that Rituals was getting at the time. The concept remained vague and I’d be lying if I said I understood what the problem was. But as with most things in life, planting a seed is where it starts and over time it started to become increasingly clear as I started linking things together in my head. For those who are unsure about the topic and what it means, let me take you on my journey.

Switzerland's commitment to protecting its cultural heritage and national symbols

Switzerland is renowned for its commitment to quality, accuracy, and tradition, which is evident in both its national brand protection practices and its products. Recently, this was demonstrated by the decision to forbid Toblerone from using the Matterhorn's image on its packaging after the company moved its manufacturing outside of the nation. I was impressed by Switzerland's commitment to protecting its cultural heritage and national symbols, even though some people might view this as an overly strict policy. Instead of feeling sorry for Toblerone, I was impressed by Switzerland's devotion to its name.

Photo by Safwan C K
Respect for cultural heritage and national symbols is just as important as product quality and accuracy.

It's the first time I've consciously realized how important national symbols and cultural identity can be, sometimes even more so than the products themselves, and how businesses should respect the cultures from which they draw their inspiration.

Dutch pancakes – A case of cultural appropriation?

I was eager to try the Dutch pancakes I had grown up with as I sat at the well-known pancake-house restaurant in Asia. Yet, as soon as I took a bite, I sensed a problem. The pancakes I was used to and adored were not these. Quite the contrary, these were outright horrible. I discovered that this restaurant was utilizing the Dutch tradition of pancake houses to sell their services, which left me feeling disappointed and a little insulted. The restaurant was filled when I turned to look around, and I couldn't help but wonder how many other patrons were feeling let down as well. Answer; probably none as I was the only blond-haired European there.

This experience may seem trivial, and that is how I treated it. But it was eventually one of several puzzle pieces that had to be fitted together before I got a better understanding of what cultural appropriation means, and how it is abused in the world of branding.

The problem with cultural appropriation

Cultural appropriation is when a dominant culture adopts elements from a marginalized culture without giving proper credit or recognition.

The importance of cultural appreciation

Cultural appreciation is when one culture celebrates and respects the traditions, beliefs, and customs of another culture.

So what is the problem?

The problem with cultural appropriation is that it often involves stealing cultural iconography, ideas, and practices from another culture without any acknowledgment or appreciation. This can lead to the exploitation of marginalized cultures and the perpetuation of harmful stereotypes.

Cultural appropriation perpetuates harmful stereotypes and exploits marginalized cultures for profit.

In the world of branding, cultural appropriation has been a controversial topic for years. Many companies have been criticized for appropriating cultural elements to market their products to ultimately, make more profits. Profits are not the bad part, the unethical part is making the profits on the values of a culture that are not yours. It becomes especially twisted when you start abusing that culture by twisting and misinterpreting that culture.

Urban Outfitters – An example of cultural appropriation

Urban Outfitters, a well-known fashion brand, was criticized in 2011 for its "Navajo" collection, which featured apparel, accessories, and home decor with Navajo-inspired patterns and themes. The problem was that the business did not have consent from the Navajo Nation, the Native American tribe that made these designs and was referenced in the marketing of the products.

The Indian Arts and Crafts Act, which forbids the misrepresentation of American Indian arts and crafts, was allegedly violated by Urban Outfitters, according to the Navajo Nation, which filed a complaint against the retailer for trademark infringement. The corporation was charged with cultural appropriation in the case for allegedly making money off of Navajo designs without offering credit or payment to the Navajo people.

Models Julian Schneyder and Filip Hrivnak strike a pose for Dsquared2 fall-winter 2015 advertising campaign.
DSquared2 have enlisted supermodels Caroline Trentini, Joan Smalls and Fei Fei Sun as the face of their fall/winter advertising campaign, alongside male models Julian Schneyder, Filip Hrivnak captured by Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott. Make-Up by Lucia Pieroni, Hair by Sam McKnight, Styled by Panos Yiapanis, Art Direction by Giovanni Bianco.

Adidas – A lesson on the risks of cultural appropriation

Adidas experienced a lot of criticism in 2012 when it announced plans to sell sneakers with plastic ankle shackles that were said to reference slavery and oppression in the past. The company came under fire from critics for using a representation of Black pain and suffering to make a fashion statement. Particularly in light of the ongoing struggle for racial justice, some people perceived the shoes as offensive and insensitive.

Adidas made the decision not to release the shoes in the wake of the controversy, claiming in a statement that the design did not align with the company's values of inclusion and diversity. The occurrence served as a sobering lesson about the risks of cultural appropriation in marketing and the value of taking into account the historical and cultural context of the goods being marketed.

The JS Roundhouse Mids.

Ben & Jerry's – A case of cultural appreciation

However, not all businesses make mistakes. Some businesses have had success incorporating cultural elements in a respectful and appreciative manner. For instance, "Phish Food" ice cream from Ben & Jerry's was created in conjunction with the band Phish. The flavor includes fish-shaped fudge pieces and swirls of caramel and marshmallow. While the flavor bears the band's name, it also honors the Vermont custom of ice fishing. The easier way for them would have just been to copy the band’s style and hope for the best, but they obviously chose to do it the right way.

Ben & Jerry’s NEWEST flavor is It’s Ice…Cream, the third flavor partnership with Phish

Full Circle, back to Rituals, the gray area

Rituals is a manufacturer of cosmetics and home goods that finds inspiration in a variety of cultural rituals and practices, including Ayurveda, the Hammam, and Sakura. Rituals has consequently drawn criticism and charges of cultural appropriation.

Some have criticized Rituals for removing these cultural practices' components from their context and presenting them in a cursory or commercialized manner. For instance, some have argued that the company promotes the ancient Indian healing system of Ayurveda as a chic and opulent lifestyle option rather than a rich and intricate cultural tradition. Others have noted how the brand uses stereotyped images of exoticism and Orientalism in its packaging and marketing materials.

Rituals' detractors contend that the company takes advantage of other people's cultural heritage without properly acknowledging or respecting it. Others, however, view Rituals as an illustration of cultural appreciation because the company works to inform its clients about various cultural customs and practices while promoting mindfulness and well-being.

The discussion of Rituals and cultural appropriation as a whole emphasizes how complicated and nuanced these issues are. While some consider the brand's strategy to be respectful and advantageous, others see it as a form of exploitation and cultural appropriation.

About Rituals

In Conclusion

Finally, it should be noted that cultural appropriation is a delicate subject that must be covered in the world of branding. Businesses need to be conscious of the cultural components they use in their branding and make sure they do so in a respectful and appreciative way. Avoiding perpetuating negative stereotypes is crucial in order to honor the cultures that have influenced their products.

It's crucial to refrain from criticizing those who might unintentionally appropriate culture, though. Many people might not be aware of the reasons why others might find their creations offensive. Without realizing it, they may become defensive and react angrily, causing more harm.

Respectful appreciation, not appropriation, honors the cultures that inspire us in the world of branding.

As a result, we shouldn't steal cultural iconography that isn't actually ours. Instead, to ensure that we are respectful and appreciative, we should educate ourselves about the culture before using it and think about working with someone from that culture. We will probably cross boundaries in our careers as creatives, but we must be willing to learn and be respectful of others.

In conclusion, inspiration can be found everywhere, but it's crucial to respect cultural differences and actively seek out and appreciate the cultures that have influenced us. In our creative endeavors, let's strive for respect and admiration of one another.